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Commissioned on the 18th
of August 99 Fort Kochi is a great tribute to the city of Cochin. Designed and
built in the style and principle of the early Dutch and Portuguese
architecture of Fort Cochin blends very well into the Cochin sky
line. Its hard to believe that the Brunton is a new building since
it resembles the old colonial buildings of Cochin. The simple lime
washed walls, sloping tile roof and terra-cotta floors with the
Giant “Rain Tree” completing the picture.
Cochin was born in
a storm, nurtured in rivalry, and established as the Crossroads of
the Battling Empires of Europe: Portuguese, Dutch and British.
In the 1340’s
torrential rains filled the Periyar River which broke through to
Arabian Sea and formed Cochin’s protected harbour. Trading ships
soon sailed in: and out. The much-photographed Chinese fishing nets
at the harbour-mouth, best seen at sunset, testify to Cochin’s
pre-European association with China.
An in an intriguing
side note to history, the Americans were discovered by Christopher
Columbus and Pero Alvarez Cabral, and named after Amerigo Vespucci:
all three were searching for trading ties with Cochin. Success,
however, came to another European navigator.
In 1502, Portuguese
Seafarer Vasco da Gama came to Cochin seeking spices and converts.
He found his spices, launched Europe’s great Age of Exploration:
and prayed in the first European church in Asia. His Roman Catholic
faith, however, conflicted with the existing Syrian Christian
religion brought…along with the Flowering Cross…reputedly by
Apostles Thomas Didymus in AD 52. Cochin’s ancient Christians
swore on their revered, slanting. Coonen Corss, that they would
never accept aggressive Portuguese suzerainty. Vasco da Gama died in
Cochin on Christmas Day 1524 and was buried in this church.
Though his remains
were later removed to Portugal, his grave is marked with a plaque
and a brass rail. Portuguese headstones and those of their
successors are embedded in the walls of St. Francis Church::
reputedly named after gentle Italian, St. Francis of Assisi, but
associated with the Spanish missionary, St. Francis Xavier, who is
said to have worshipped here. Unlike the Portuguese, Cochin’s
kings were very tolerant of other faiths. European Jews, fleeing
persecution at home, settled in Jew Town near the Mattancherry
Palace of the Hindu king an dprospered. Many Jewish families have
now migrated but their beautiful four-century-old Synagogue still
has the Scrolls of the Law. Gold crowns gifted by dignitaries down
the ages, chandeliers and a brass-railed pulpit. Jewish brides, here
still wear their richly embellished traditional costumes. Unique
Willow Pattern tiles in this place of worship speak the Cochin
Jew’s once thriving trade links with China. Overlooking the Jewish
Synagogue, protectively, is the Mattancherry Palace of the formar
rajas of Cochin. Today it holds royal planquins, weapons, robes and
beautiful murals of ancient Hindu epics painted in vegetable dyes.
But, when the Portuguese were ousted by the Dutch on January 7,
1663, the people of Cochin renamed the Mattancherry Palace. The
Dutch Palace to honour the Netherlanders.
Also, above the
gateway to Stuber Hall, the crest of the Dutch East India Company
has been proudly preserved. To this day, some families in Cochin
bear Dutch names and claim descent from the old merchant princes of
Holland. The Dutch surrendered to the British on December 19, 1795.
Though the old Portuguese fort has been reduced to just a Bastion
House, the fort Cochin area became, a center of Britian’s trading
interests. Today, the Cochin Club, a mock half-timbered mansion, and
the Old Harbour House….once a Portuguese hospice but converted to
an inn by the British….date from this period.
Also from the days
of the British Raj are the trading houses, still dealing with
spices, coir, rubber and tea. Though they are Indian-owned, their
names reflect their British Empire origins. Carrit Moran: Peirce
Lesile; J Thomas: Forbes, Ewart and Giggis; Matheson Bosan quet….to
name a few. Many of their senior executives still live in the old
Raj houses in Fort Cochin. On the 15th August 1947,
however, the Lion Capital of ancient Indian Emperor Ashoka replaced
the British Crown. Indians once again began to control their own
destiny, 445 years after Vasco da Gama first established Cochin as
the Crossroads of the Batting Empires of Europe.
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