Maneater
of Mohan Trail
Days: 6 / Level: Easy / Season: November till February
Location: Northeast of Corbett Tiger Reserve, Dist Almora,
Uttaranchal
Altitude: 600 m - 1250 m
Intro - There are treks that test your
resolve, there are treks that take you to unscalable
heights, but this is one trek that tests man's wit against
the instinct of a wild beast. This forest trek takes you
on the old district road that Jim Corbett once took in
hunt of the legendary 'Maneater of Mohan'. Immortalized in
his bestseller 'Maneaters of Kumaon', this tiger killed
many humans in the Kosi Valley until Corbett finally
killed it in the summer of 1930. It's a rare opportunity
to walk through the peripheral forest of Corbett National
park, where exploring on foot is not allowed in the
reserve. The trail winds past old forests dominated by sal
and ficus, evident by giant birds like Great Hornbill,
Great Slaty Woodpeckers, several species of large owls and
a wide array of other birds. Wild elephants and big cats
also visit the area regularly. Apart from spectacular
views of the icy Nanda Devi range, the hike also offers an
insight into the lives of the communities who live
surrounded by forests.
Day 1 - Mohan - Pania Dokhan (8km) -
Time: 6 hours
The hike takes you on the abandoned old district board
road, now a fire lane, a path cleared manually to prevent
forest fires from spreading. You pass a boulder-strewn
stream, walk along the Kathkinaul ridge and camp for the
night at an abandoned Bhotia campsite - a clearing by a
broad streambed known as Pania Dokhan.
Day 2 - Pania Dokhan - Baurad Nullah (8
km) Time: 5 hours
You continue towards Baurad, a pretty village set amidst a
thick Sal forest and camp at the picture-perfect stream of
Baurad nullah. The place finds a mention in international
birdwatching itineraries and is popularly known as
Forktail Stream. Apart from forktails, you can see owls,
flycatchers, minivets, tisias, the brown dipper and many
other species.
Day 3 Baurad Nullah - Kathkinaul (9 km)
Time: 6 hours
You gain over 1000m in altitude today. After Malla Baud
village you come to a water source, where Jim Corbett had
an insightful conversation about the maneater with a
village woman filling water. The campsite offers a
spectacular view of the Kosi Valley stretching southwards,
the Ramganga Valley to the north with terraced fields and
mountains dominated by the icy Nanda Devi range.
Day 4 Kathkinaul - Bhakrakot (5 km) Time:
2 hours
The forest bungalow at Kathkinaul where Corbett had camped
while stalking the maneater is in ruins today. If you are
really serious about the Corbett legacy, you can drive
from Bhakrakot to Kaladhungi to spend the night. This is
where Corbett's father worked as a Post Master and Jim
spent many his childhood. It's uncanny that it was at
Kaladhungi that he shot his first leopard at the age of 13
and his last tiger at the ripe old age of 70 shortly after
WW2. You can still visit the canal where he shot it, which
acts as a boundary between the Corbett estate and the
jungle.
Day 5 Bhakrakot - Chimta Khal - Vanghat
(4 km) Time: 1 hour 30 minutes
Jim Corbett, known more as the slayer of maneaters, was
also a keen angler and mentions the Western Ramganga
Valley, our next destination, in his story 'The Fish of my
Dreams'. The walk to Vanghat is extremely rewarding for
birdwatchers and you can see exotic forest birds like
Rufous-fronted Niltava and Long-tailed Broadbills.
Day 6 Vanghat - Chaknakl chaur (4 km)
Time: 2 hours
From Vanghat Mahseer Camp you follow the meandering course
of the Ramganga and after a few river crossings, reach
Chaknakl Chaur. This was where Corbett shot the Maneater
of Mohan in 1930, bringing this legendary trek to its
logical end. If you are lucky, you might encounter the
Chunars, a hill tribe who carve pots out of wood.