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There are at least a hundred such rest houses scattered
all over Kumaon and Garhwal- most were built during the time of the “Raj” though
only a few retain the old grandeur and still have memories of days gone by. Selection
of rest houses is based on the forests around it and the colonial architecture
of the rest house. Most of the rest houses do not have electricity, but rest assured
you would begin to like it very soon- we also take enough lanterns and candles
to provide lighting where necessary. On
many occasions, beautifully located and built, private homes that people rent
out can be alternated with the rest houses depending on your preference and the
route taken. Such stone, glass and wood homes are commonly seen strewn about the
Kumaon Himalayas in the most “picture perfect” locations. Sample
Tour Plan - Eight nights and nine days
Day 1:Arrive at Camp
Forktail Creek
Arrive at Camp Forktail Creek by lunch. After wash
and change and a sumptuous lunch, we would take you on an escorted nature and
bird walk into the Sal forests surrounding camp. It is an excellent opportunity
to walk in the cool of the forest, to be so close to nature and to appreciate
the varied plants, insects, birds, mammals and reptiles that inhabit this part
of the country. THE QUIETER YOU ARE, THE MORE YOU WILL SEE.
Back
to camp by sundown for campfire and dinner, which is leisurely and personal. Along
with the excellent cuisine, your guide and hosts will amuse and amaze you with
their stories of exciting experiences. Then it is time to relax once again and
enjoy carefree chatter by the fireside whilst feasting on the unique sounds and
smells that your exclusive location offers, before retiring to bed with only canvas
separating you from the Indian jungles.
Day 2: Camp Forktail
Creek to an FRH near Ranikhet
After a lavish breakfast, pack
for the journey ahead and depart for our first FRH. Today our route would take
us past Mohan onto the road leading to Ranikhet- as we go higher the Sal forests
would give way to tall Pine trees. Packed lunch, specially prepared by our chef,
would be served in a pine forest by a stream.
Once in Ranikhet,
a drive of three hours, we would explore the quiet and charming hill station,
offering breathtaking, panoramic views of the snow laden Himalayan peaks.
A visit to the Kumaon Regiment Museum, the tweed factory, the old church
and a drive past the old colonial bungalows (most of them restored and in use
by the Kumaon regiment and thus in immaculate condition) are a must. We would
visit the unusual bazaar of Ranikhet; located on the slope of a mountain and referred
to as "khadi bazaar" (“khadi” meaning “steep” in the local lingo).
Then we drive for an hour and a half, past Majkhali (with awe-inspiring and very
prominent views of the Trishul & Nanda Devi peaks) to reach the old forest
bungalow. The drive to get here is awesome; partly on metalled roads which then
gives way to a jeep track past thick rhododendron & oak forests.
At the rest house our staff, who would have arrived there earlier in a pilot
jeep would have hot “chai” ready and waiting for our arrival.
After
a quick wash and change, admire the breathtaking sundown and then settle down
near the fireplace with your guide and hosts for an easy and relaxed evening over
drinks, snacks and dinner.
Overnight in the forest rest house / safari
tents.
Day 3: At the FRH near Ranikhet
Apart from the
great location of the bungalow -overlooking the majestic Himalayan ranges – it
is a fine place for walks in the thick oak and rhododendron forest. This can be
clubbed with a visit to a famous Ashram nearby.
For those interested
in bird watching, this is a great opportunity- our naturalist would lead a walk
into the forests early in the morning and have you back in time for breakfast.
Post that you could explore the bungalow- read its old guest register with
entries dating back to 1906, flip thru the old, moth-eaten Brit magazines and
other publications, admire its old furniture, crockery, cutlery and the great
stone architecture.
Post a hot lunch and a short siesta, we explore the
environs of the rest house. After breathtaking views from sun-set point (we discovered
this vantage point in our last trip!) we head back to the FRH for our last night
here.
Being on top of a hill with thick forests all around, whistling
winds visit each evening, sometimes bringing with them low lying clouds and mists,
turning the whole place into an abode of clouds- a heavenly feel!
It
is time to relax once again and enjoy carefree banter by the fireplace over drinks
and dinner, before retiring to bed in the forest rest house / safari tents.
Day 4: FRH near Ranikhet to FRH near Baijnath
Drive, post
an easy breakfast towards the FRH past Baijnath. Today we would drive past Someshwar,
Kausani & Baijnath. Stops, to explore each place would be made. Kausani is
noted for its close Himalyan views and Baijnath for the famous old temple complex
by the shallow Gomti river.
The last few kms of the drive offer
breathtaking close views of Trishul & Nanda Devi. The drive is on a forest
track in a very “Pine” forest past small Kumaoni hamlets.
The FRH is
one of the earlier built ones and surprisingly better maintained. Admirable stone
architecture with carved pillars and large bay windows complete the serene picture.
Hot “chai” and a ready rest house would be awaiting our arrival. After a
wash and change, we can all settle down by the fireplace and discuss the events
of the day and the plans for the next day.
Overnight in the forest rest
house / safari tents.
Day 5: At the FRH near Baijnath
Day spent in exploring the areas around. This rest house is located in the middle
of a dense pine forest. For those who want, we would drive a short distance away
for spectacular close and colossal views of the Himalayan peaks, at sunrise and
then walk back to the rest house past small two-house traditional Kumaoni hamlets.
This old bungalow was built in 1921 and still has remnants of the old grandeur.
More than half a day can be spent discovering them. The old outhouse located within
the same compound, but at a lower level, is a great area to explore.
Day 6: FRH near Baijanth to FRH near Someshwar
Wake up at
leisure and have breakfast laid out in the spacious lawns of the bungalow. After
that we pack and leave for out next rest house, towards Binsar. We don't actually
drive all the way to Binsar, but cut of many kms ahead for our next FRH. The drive
today will take us past Bageshwar and then smaller hamlets. The last exciting
15 kms are in a virgin forest of oak and rhododendron, which then gives way to
Pine as we go deeper and deeper into the forest.
This FRH was also
built in 1906 and amazingly has electricity! The bungalow is well maintained and
seems like paradise in the middle of nowhere. Its wild gardens are dotted with
patches of lilies, multi-coloured wildflowers and many other seasonal flowers.
The staff here, proudly tend to a rather large scale medicinal plant nursery.
Just exploring the area within the rest house compound gives sheer pleasure to
those weary city minds!
Overnight in the forest rest house / safari tents.
Day 7: FRH near Someshwar to Camp Forktail Creek
Early breakfast,
pack and depart for Camp Forktail Creek. Part of the drive today would be similar
to our first day of traveling as we hit Ranikhet and then get to Camp. We would
have packed lunch on the way and be back in Camp just in time for some evening
tea.
After the much needed scrub, we gather by the campfire and discuss
our trip. This time it would be you telling the stories and adding to our experiences!
After a relaxed round of drinks and dinner, retire to the tents for your last
night at Camp.
* If you have more time (say two more days), instead
of driving back to Camp we could drive on towards a rest house near Nainital/
Ramgarh/ Bhowali/ Naukuchital and end your trip there. You could then depart for
your onward destination from there itself. It would be the same distance from
Delhi as Camp is.
Day 8: At the FRH near Someshwar
After a late breakfast and lounging about the FRH, we walk to a nearby temple.
There are actually two in the area. The more well-known and famous “Gannath” temple
is a mere 15 minutes walk amidst tall pine trees and is intriguing enough for
the not so religious minded too.
This second, a one and a half
hour uphill hike through dense forests, is also reachable by road, so those who
wish to drive and walk back (or vice versa), could also do so.
The area also makes for great walks for bird watching and sighting the elusive
mountain goat.
Overnight in the forest rest house / safari tents.
Day 9: Depart for onward destination
Wake up at leisure.
After breakfast bid goodbye to the wildlife team and depart for onward destination.
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- Section Contains Photographs taken by Nivalink Team.